More Bokashi Composting

Vermiposting and Regular (hot) Composting

Ok, I have not really explained bokashi composting yet.  Bokashi is not ready to use on top of the ground as a fertilizer after it has undergone anaerobic decomposition in a sealed bucket.  You can do three things with it:

  • Bury it in your garden under several inches of dirt where it will finish decomposing in about two weeks.
  • Put it in your compost heap where it will act similar to manure and speed up the decomposition process.
  • Feed it to red worms who love the bacteria and produce worm castings (poop).

Since I have a garden growing now, I use the bokashi in my worm bins and compost heap.  In the winter, I will either bury or feed it to the worms.  As you can see, each type of composting complements the others.

There you have it!  The devil is in the details, but these three types of composting give me something to do, as well as giving back to Mother Earth.

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About reluctantretiree

recent last-minute retiree, husband, father, grandfather, student, technology nerd, fabricator, builder, etc., trying to figure out what to do with the rest of my life.
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2 Responses to More Bokashi Composting

  1. ourowntime says:

    I’m interested in understanding more about your composting. Do the anaerobic bins have worms? What is the concern about composting being “unnatural”? Is anything we do natural? We keep two very simple compost bins outside with leaves, grass, coffee grounds that a local coffee shop gives us, and discarded plant material from our kitchen (garbage). We aren’t very scientific about it. Just fill up one side, turn it every so often – and then fill the other side while we use the compost from first one on our garden.

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    • Hi! Thanks for your interest! The stacked buckets are the only process where I actually try to have an anaerobic process going. The advantage to the bokashi bucket is that most any kitchen waste (meat, fish, moldy bread, etc.) can be fermented in a sealed container inside your house! If you were to put meat or fish in your compost pile, it would most certainly attract unwanted vermin. The Rubbermaid storage bins with the snap-on lids have louvers in each end to allow for air flow. The worm bedding needs to be loose and moist, but not wet. My bins have no drainage holes in the bottom, unlike other designs, because I want to take the bins inside my house during the winter, without making a mess on my basement floor. If the bedding becomes too wet or packed down, the process becomes anaerobic, stinks, and the worms will drown. Then I must wipe up the excess moisture with paper towels and stir in some more dry bedding to absorb the moisture.

      I believe that the people who criticize composting are interested in promoting their own agenda, selling buckets, bokashi starter, inoculated bran, etc. The only “natural” way in their eyes would be to let seeds grow wherever they land, grow and get eaten by an animal or rot slowly – the circle of life. If I add too much nitrogen to my compost pile, some of it is lost in the air. If my material has a high carbon content, or is not chopped finely, decomposition is incomplete. I am with you. I do not worry too much about the method. I am keeping a lot of garbage out of the landfill and producing rich organic fertilizer to feed my plants. Keep up the good work!

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